Peter Philips explains how to get that “inner glow” from Dior Cruise.
Hot on the heels of Louis Vuitton’s Resort collection in Palm Springs, Dior staged its Cruise show on a sky-grazing cliff in the French Riviera. Despite being an ocean apart, many a parallel existed between the two productions—from a futuristic setting centered around a lavish pool (Vuitton showed at Bob Hope’s estate, while Dior opted for Pierre Cardin’s Palais Bulles) to models sporting candy-colored dye jobs (LV cast Fernanda Hin Lin Ly and her signature pink strands, whereas Dior opted for Yuan Bo Chao and her fiery red mane reminiscent of The Little Mermaid). In terms of hair and makeup, both fashion houses seemed to fully support a return to laid-back beauty. After a Fall ’15 season punctuated by side ponytails and kidney-shaped blocks of shadow (both seen on the Dior runway), it appears that pros were ready for a respite. “It was more about a feeling of relaxation,” said makeup artist Peter Philips of today’s finished package. “It was about being in this amazing bubble house and playing with the space, light, and the fact that you’re so close to the Côte d’Azur.” The face painter could have very well gone in the direction of Brigitte Bardot or any other recognizable French beauty icon, but in tandem with such an extraordinary feat of architecture and a plethora of prints (including a beach-friendly interpretation of plaid), “conceptual makeup or a color statement” could be distracting. “It could become very ’60s or Barbarella or futuristic,” he explained.
Instead, the makeup maestro devised an “inner glow” rather than a complexion that looked sun-kissed or tan. At the base, Dior Diorskin Star Foundation was employed to “cover” any imperfections and lend a luminous finish to catwalkers’ faces. Next, Diorblush Cheek Stick in Cosmopolite Rosewood (available in August) was dabbed onto apples before a highlighter was tapped along cheekbones and on the center of lids. To avoid any harsh lines and give the impression that models like Greta Varlese, Julia Nobis, and Mica Arganaraz earned that hint of warmth by spending a few carefree days on the sand (slathered in SPF, of course), Philips avoided powders and opted for cream formulas that would seamlessly blend together with a sponge or fingertips. Eyes were kept neutral via Dior’s Eye Reviver Illuminating Neutrals Eye Palette, and lips were topped off with the brand’s Tie-Dye Edition Lip Maximizer in Beige Sunrise for “radiance” rather than a “glossy shine.” Arches were defined with the Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown (an ashy shade that suits almost any hair color), then emphasized with the Diorshow Brow Styler Gel (on shelves in June) for texture. “It’s almost like washing your hair with a very rich conditioner—it lends brows a touch of shine,” Philips said. To ensure that inner glow stayed put as models soaked in some rays between shows, Philips applied the makeup in thin layers—“like a mille-feuille”—then blotted and applied a bit of sheer powder across the T-zone if needed.
The overarching lesson learned thus far from the SoCal to the south of France: Beauty should play a supporting role, not steal the spotlight.